Lavender (Lavandula genus) is a beloved and fragrant herb, prized for its beautiful flowers, aromatic foliage, and versatility in culinary, aromatherapy, and ornamental uses. Growing lavender in containers is an excellent way to enjoy this Mediterranean native, especially if you have less-than-ideal garden soil, limited space, or want to bring its delightful fragrance closer to your home. Container gardening allows for better control over growing conditions and easy relocation of these sun-loving plants.

Lavender

Key Features of Lavender:

• Flowers: Lavender is famous for its spikes of fragrant flowers, typically in shades of purple, lavender-blue, pink, or white. Flowers are highly attractive to bees and butterflies and are excellent for cutting, fresh or dried.
• Foliage: Lavender has aromatic, silvery-gray to green foliage that is often finely divided or lance-shaped. The foliage itself is evergreen or semi-evergreen in milder climates and contributes to the plant’s year-round appeal.
• Types: There are several main types of lavender, with some being better suited for container gardening than others:
  • English Lavender (Lavandula angustifolia): Most popular and hardiest type, known for classic lavender fragrance and good cold hardiness (zones 5-8). Compact varieties like ‘Hidcote’, ‘Munstead’, and ‘Phenomenal’ are excellent for containers.
  • Lavandin (Lavandula x intermedia): Hybrids of English and Portuguese lavender, larger and more vigorous than English lavender, with stronger fragrance. ‘Grosso’ and ‘Provence’ are popular, but can be larger for containers. Choose smaller lavandins or prune more frequently.
  • Spanish Lavender (Lavandula stoechas): Distinctive “pinecone” shaped flowers with showy bracts at the top. Less cold-hardy than English lavender (zones 8-9), but more heat and humidity tolerant. ‘Otto Quast’ and ‘Otto Pink’ are good container choices.
  • French Lavender (Lavandula dentata): Very fragrant foliage with finely toothed leaves. Less cold-hardy (zones 9-10), best for warm climates or as annuals in cooler regions.
• Size: Lavender size varies by type and cultivar, ranging from compact dwarf varieties reaching 1-2 feet tall and wide to larger types reaching 3-4 feet. Dwarf and compact English and Spanish lavenders are best suited for most containers.
• Hardiness: Hardiness varies significantly by species. English lavender is the most cold-hardy, while French and Spanish lavenders are less so. Choose varieties appropriate for your local hardiness zone for perennial container displays.
• Maintenance: Lavender is generally low-maintenance once established, especially in containers where you can control soil and drainage. Key needs are full sun, well-drained soil, and infrequent watering.

Growing Lavender in Pots at Home:

1. Choosing the Right Pot:

• Material:
  • Terracotta or Clay Pots: Highly recommended for lavender. Excellent drainage and breathability are crucial for lavender, which dislikes wet feet. Terracotta allows excess moisture to evaporate and provides good aeration to the roots.
  • Unglazed Terracotta: Best for maximum breathability.
  • Glazed Terracotta or Ceramic: Retain moisture slightly better than unglazed terracotta, but still offer good drainage. Decorative options available.
  • Avoid Plastic Pots: Plastic pots retain too much moisture and can lead to root rot, especially in humid climates or if overwatered. If using plastic, ensure extremely well-draining potting mix and very careful watering.
• Size: Select a pot that is appropriately sized for the lavender variety.
  • Dwarf Lavender (under 2 feet): Start with a pot that is at least 12 inches in diameter and depth.
  • Standard Lavender (2-3 feet): Use pots that are 14-16 inches or larger in diameter and depth.
  • General Rule: Choose a pot that is slightly larger than the plant’s root ball, allowing room for growth. Lavender prefers to be slightly root-bound, so avoid overly large pots initially.
• Drainage: Excellent drainage is absolutely essential for lavender. Ensure the pot has large and ample drainage holes. Elevate the pot slightly on pot feet or bricks to further improve drainage and air circulation around the drainage holes.

2. Planting:

• When to Plant: Spring or early summer is the best time to plant lavender in containers, after the danger of frost has passed.
• Potting Mix: Use a very well-draining, lean, and slightly alkaline potting mix.
  • Commercial Cactus/Succulent Mix: Provides excellent drainage and is often a good base.
  • Amend Standard Potting Mix: If using general-purpose potting mix, amend it heavily with drainage-improving materials:
    • Coarse Sand or Horticultural Sand: Up to 1/3 of the mix by volume.
    • Perlite or Vermiculite: Up to 1/3 of the mix by volume.
    • Gravel or Small Pebbles: You can add a layer at the bottom of the pot, but mixing throughout the potting mix is more effective for overall drainage.
  • Lime (Optional): Lavender prefers slightly alkaline soil. If your potting mix is acidic, you can amend with a small amount of garden lime to raise the pH slightly. However, many lavenders will adapt to slightly acidic conditions if drainage is excellent.
• Planting Process:
  1. Fill the pot partially with your well-draining potting mix.
  2. Gently remove the lavender plant from its nursery container, and loosen any circling roots.
  3. Place the lavender in the pot, ensuring the top of the root ball is level with the potting mix surface. Do not plant too deeply.
  4. Backfill around the root ball with the potting mix, gently firming it.
  5. Water thoroughly, allowing excess water to drain freely from the drainage holes.
  6. Top-dress the soil surface with a layer of gravel or pebbles. This helps improve drainage around the crown of the plant, reduces soil moisture retention at the surface, and adds a decorative touch.

3. Care:

• Sunlight: Lavender needs full sun (at least 6-8 hours of direct sunlight per day) to thrive and bloom profusely. Place containers in the sunniest location possible.
• Watering: Water sparingly and allow the soil to dry out thoroughly between waterings. Overwatering is the most common mistake with lavender and can quickly lead to root rot.
  • Water deeply but infrequently. When you water, saturate the soil until water drains from the bottom of the pot. Then, allow the top few inches of soil to dry out completely before watering again.
  • Check soil moisture regularly by inserting your finger into the soil. Water only when the soil is dry to the touch.
  • Reduce watering in winter when the plant is dormant and growth slows down. Water only occasionally to prevent the soil from completely drying out.
  • Good drainage is more important than frequent watering.
• Fertilizing: Lavender is not a heavy feeder and generally prefers lean soil. Avoid over-fertilizing.
  • Light Fertilizing in Spring (Optional): You can apply a very dilute, balanced fertilizer (e.g., 10-10-10) in early spring as new growth begins, but it’s often not necessary, especially if using a good quality potting mix.
  • Avoid High-Nitrogen Fertilizers: Excess nitrogen can promote lush foliage growth at the expense of flowers and fragrance, and can make plants leggy and prone to flopping.
  • Bone Meal (Optional): You can amend the potting mix with bone meal at planting time to provide phosphorus, which can encourage flowering.
• Pruning: Regular pruning is important for maintaining lavender’s shape, promoting bushier growth, and preventing it from becoming woody and leggy.
  • Annual Pruning After Flowering: After the main bloom period in late summer, prune back spent flower stems and about 1/3 of the plant’s overall growth. Shape the plant into a rounded mound. Avoid cutting back into old, woody growth below the leafy green growth, as lavender may not regrow from old wood.
  • Light Deadheading: You can deadhead spent flowers throughout the blooming season to encourage continued flowering.
• Overwintering: Winter care depends on the hardiness of your lavender variety and your climate:
  • Hardy Lavender (English Lavender in Zones 5-7/8): In zones within the lavender’s hardiness range, container lavender can often overwinter outdoors. Provide some winter protection:
    • Sheltered Location: Move pots to a location sheltered from harsh winter winds and excessive moisture (e.g., against a house foundation, under an overhang).
    • Insulation (Colder Zones): In colder zones (zone 5 and colder) or for less hardy varieties, insulate pots by wrapping them with burlap, bubble wrap, or blankets to protect the roots from freezing. Mulch the soil surface.
    • Water Sparingly in Winter: Water only very occasionally during winter dry spells to prevent the soil from completely drying out. Avoid overwatering in winter.
  • Less Hardy Lavender (Spanish, French Lavender, or in colder zones): In colder zones or for less hardy types, it’s best to bring container lavender indoors for winter.
    • Cool, Bright Location: Move pots to a cool, bright, unheated but frost-free location, such as an unheated garage, sunroom, or cool basement with grow lights.
    • Reduce Watering Significantly: Water very sparingly during winter dormancy, only enough to prevent the soil from completely drying out.
    • Reintroduce Gradually in Spring: In spring, gradually re-acclimate plants to outdoor conditions before placing them back in full sun.

Lavender

4. Benefits of Growing Lavender in Pots:

• Control Drainage: Container gardening allows you to provide the excellent drainage that lavender absolutely needs, especially in areas with heavy clay soil or wet conditions.
• Portability: Easily move pots to follow the sun, bring indoors for winter protection, or place near seating areas to enjoy the fragrance.
• Space Saving: Ideal for small gardens, patios, balconies, and decks.
• Improved Air Circulation: Containers elevate plants, improving air circulation around the foliage, which can help prevent fungal diseases.
• Aesthetic Appeal: Potted lavender adds a charming Mediterranean touch to patios and outdoor spaces.

5. Potential Problems with Container Lavender:

• Root Rot (from overwatering): The most common problem. Ensure excellent drainage and water sparingly.
• Drying Out Too Quickly (Terracotta pots): Terracotta pots can dry out rapidly in hot, sunny weather, requiring more frequent monitoring of soil moisture.
• Winter Hardiness Limits (in containers): Roots in containers are more exposed to freezing temperatures than in-ground plants, requiring winter protection in colder zones.
• Nutrient Leaching: Frequent watering can leach nutrients from containers, potentially requiring light fertilization.